INTERVIEW WITH: THE FARM HOUSE NATURAL CHEESES



The Farm House Natural Cheeses have received international recognition and acclaim for their cheese - and we are lucky enough to have them in our own back yard. Nestled in the lush Fraser Valley, the farm has been run by Debra Amrein-Boyes, her husband and, as they were growing up, their children for over twenty years. As if they weren't busy enough, Debra has taken the time to provide us with thoughtful and beautifully descriptive answers to a few questions we had for them. They really are worth taking a moment to read! They are representative of the care and diligence that goes into making what are no doubt some of the best cheeses in the country - if not the world.

Charelli's: Could we start with a bit of background?

Debra Amrein-Boyes: Our family moved to this farm in 1986 from another local farm. My husband has been in this area since the late 70's after emigrating from England, where he grew up in a dairy farm family. We started making cheese in 2004. The decision to begin cheesemaking came in response to changes in the dairy industry that made it more difficult to makes ends meet. We needed to either grow or diversify. We decided to diversify into farmstead cheesemaking, something that suited our situation and skills.

C: You've recently been inducted into the French Cheese Guild (Guilde des Fromagers Confrerie de Saint-Uguzon), which "recognizes those who protect and continue the tradition of cheesemaking around the world". This is a huge honour. How did you learn traditional methods and why is it important to you to protect them?

DAB: I am indeed honoured to have been chosen for membership in this prestigious guild. Traditional crafts and methods of food production have always interested me. I have always been the type of person who wants to make things from "scratch"....you know, if you need a blanket, weave it yourself, but first raise the sheep, shear it, spin the wool, then weave it. I lived in the Swiss Alps for 10 years and began simple cheesemaking when I was there. Being on the farm is a perfect place to indulge in self-sufficiency - we have always raised our own vegetables, fruits, meat and milk, and eggs (though we don't have chickens anymore). I believe that agricultural families form a very important part of the underpinnings of any society, and the knowledge gained throughout centuries of working on the land with the rudiments of life (and death) is a valuable resource for all generations. It is a wonderful place to raise children-they learn so much, and become valuable hard-working contributors to society.

C: Take us through a typical day on the farm.

DAB: We have a division of labour-my husband looks after the animals and the farm operation, and I do the cheesemaking and purveying of the cheese. We have a full-time worker on the farm, and one or two part time. In the past it was a family affair, but now the children are growing up and moving on to their own pursuits, so the labour shortage is keenly felt! Finding labour for farms is a huge problem.

We do 4 milkings a day, cows begin at 5:30am then goats at 7am. The same routine in the afternoon, at 5:30 and 6pm. Of course there are a lot of mouths to feed, so feeding takes up a large portion of the day. And not everyone gets the same ration, depending on their role, stage of life, etc. Milk producing animals are "working" so require top nutrition and care to keep them healthy and productive. Babies are being born regularly, each one needing one-on-one attention.

Then there is the constant upkeep of equipment and buildings, and in the Fraser Valley the grass grows FAST. We graze our cows, and also do up to 5 cuttings of grass for hay during the growing season. All of this makes for a very long work day and work week. No 8 hours a day, 5 days a week for farmers! The benefits in terms of living a self-sufficient life in the country, having ready-made jobs to teach the children responsibility, and knowing that what you do is one of the most important jobs in society (feeding people!) help make up for the tiredness and the discouraging times struggling with bottom lines and the inevitable mortalities on the farm. One thing is for sure, food is too cheap.

C: Tell us a bit more about your animals.

DAB: At this point in time we milk about 160 goats and 30 cows. In any dairy operation, the number of milking animals is doubled by the young stock and animals in the "dry"stage of lactation. So there are about 60 cattle, and around 400 goats on the property. We also have a few sheep, 2 pigs, and 2 dogs. Of course can't forget the cats, they are also "working" animals on the farm-their job is to keep down the mice and they do a good job! They are especially visible around milking time, as they wait for that bucket of fresh milk set out for them to lap up.

A farmer always has relationships with the animals on the farm, though it can get difficult to be "close" to so many. However, most people would be surprised at how well a farmer will know each of his animals - after all, they work closely together every day of the year.

We changed our operation from a conventional dairy milking Holstein cows, to a lower production "custom-made milk" dairy with coloured cow breeds such as Brown Swiss and Guernsey. Most of our cows and quite a few of the goats have names - the Brown Swiss, for instance, have Swiss type names like Heidi, Vreni and Lotti, and the Guernseys have aristocratic names like Lady and Duchess. In addition to dairy cows, we added milk goats to the mix in 2007 in order to meet the demand for goat milk products.

We grow fodder crops-hay and corn- to feed our animals, in addition to a grain ration that is specially mixed for each animal's needs. The cows graze the pastures from April to October, depending on the weather, and are housed in "loafing barns" where they can wander around, eat, and lie down where and when they want, in clean dry stalls. The goats live in groups in open pens.

C: What are the cheeses or cheese-makers inspire you?

DAB: I am inspired by the small farmstead cheesemakers throughout the centuries who have quietly worked to provide good food for their families and communities. There are so many types of cheese all reflecting the creativity of the human spirit. One of the most satisfying thing about being a cheesemaker is taking a simple ingredient - milk - and creating a delicious healthy food from it.

Farm House Goat CheesesC: What's your favourite meal and where's your favourite place to eat it?

DAB: One great thing about living on a farm is the access to the very best quality food all the time. We are truly spoiled in that area. In the summer we make lunch the main meal of the day, and set the table outside under the orchard. Everyone stops work for an hour or two, and sits down to a complete menu - soup, salad, grilled or roasted meat or fish, vegetables, dessert, coffee, a glass of wine.... something to look forward to. We have always preserved the summer's bounty for the winter, canning fruit, making jam, freezing the garden vegetables, pressing cider and grape juice, and the freezer is full of our own beef and lamb. But we also love to visit some of the great restaurants that BC is renowned for and enjoy the creativity of some truly amazing chefs. I believe chefs play an important role in representing the producers to the public.

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