PORCINI MUSHROOMS

The name "Porcini" reputedly has its roots in the word "porcellini", which is Italian for "piglets". This less-than-elegant christening is, in theory, derived either from the fact that young porcini look a lot like young pigs, or from the fact that pigs fight over this fungus. Lest this put you off, please remember - pigs are very intelligent animals.

Fresh porcini can weigh up to a kilogram each (though the smaller are often deemed tastier) and are delicious grilled, fried, sauteed, stuffed, on burgers, as burgers... They can be used as one would use a portobello, but are more rich in flavour. When buying them, avoid ones that are yellowing under their caps, have black spots or have tiny holes in the stem.

Dried porcini should be a staple in every kitchen. Every time we lift the lid of our porcini jar we take a moment for deep inhalation as the aroma billows out. Simply steep them in water until they are reconstituted. The hotter the water the faster the process. When they're tender, drain the water off, but be sure to keep it. You'll note it's now a deep brown hue and can be used to add even more flavour to your recipe. Porcini could almost be compared to garlic in terms of their ability to offer an instant flavour boost to whatever's on the go - pasta sauce, omlettes, soups... If you want to focus on porcini as the main act, here's a tasty place to start: a Charelli's house recipe for Porcini Cream Pizza on Thin Crust Pizza Dough.

TRUFFLES

At some point during his illustrious life, or after, Italian composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini was quoted as stating he had only shed tears three times: once after the monumental failure of his first opera, again on hearing Paganini play the violin, and finally when a truffled turkey tumbled out of his small, picnicking pleasure craft and was lost in the water.

It's actually quite curious that small, lumpy, decidedly unattractive fungi have become synonymous with indulgence and luxury. Their ability to bear a formidable market-price is due, at least in part, to the mythic difficulty of their cultivation. This mystery was, however, cracked on a regional level in France the early 1800's when it was discovered that sowing acorns from trees known to have truffle-laden root systems would result in more truffle-harbouring arbors. Current truffle-production levels are actually not what they were at the turn of last century.

There is, also, the small matter of their flavour, which is undeniably unique and intense. The Black Perigord Truffle found primarily in France but also in Spain and Italy, is valued for being rich and earthy with hints of fruit. The White Piedmont Truffle, found primarily in Northern Italy, has a more delicate, savoury flavour that vanishes entirely when cooked.

Luckily, you don't have to mortgage the house to enjoy some truffle-y aromas in your food. There are lots of foodstuffs that have incorporated truffles. We have truffle oils, truffle honey, truffle polenta, truffle risotto, and, of course, truffle cheese! While the Brie with Truffles is sadly still unable to make it over the border, the Boschetto al Tartuffo is a lovely, young Italian cheese, creamy but not gooey, studded with the real black gold. Boscano Tartuffo is more reminiscent of aged pecorino - a hard, sheep's milk cheese with truffles, that is excellent for eating or cooking. (We also have truffles preserved in jars.)

And we couldn't resist checking online - Thanksgiving is coming up, so perhaps you'd like to take a crack at Rossini's Truffled Turkey?

OLIVES

With literary references dating back to ancient greek mythology, the little olive has played a major role in Mediterranean diets and trade for millennia, and is still the perfect way to compliment a basic, beautiful snack of bread, cheese and wine. The trees themselves are extremely resilient and can live hundreds, even potentially thousands, of years. The best olives - and resulting oils - are those harvested by hand, using nets laid out to collect fruit shaken from the boughs.

But 'Italian Olive Oil' has, of late, come under criticism. Oils labeled as such are often not produced in Italy at all, but only packaged in and exported from the country. Forno Bravo, on the other hand, is the real thing. Imported directly from a traditional, stone oil mill just south of Florence it's an excellent example of the classic Tuscan olive oil and we're pleased to have it in the shop!

THIS MONTH'S CHALLENGE

You've just returned from a fruitful (if somewhat abusive) visit to Charelli's, only to be greeted by your partner/parent/child/roommate inquiring incredulously, "You bought HOW much cheese??" What's your best excuse for a cheese spluge? "Carmen made me!" "I didn't buy those shoes last week!" "Cheese is full of calcium - you wouldn't want me to get osteoporosis." "It's so much cheaper than scotch!" The justification that makes us laugh the hardest wins free cheese - no excuses required. Reply to this email

Charelli's
2851 Foul Bay Road, Victoria, BC V8R 5G5 (View map)
Phone: (250) 598-4794

Shop Hours
Tuesday - Saturday open 10am - 5:30pm  |  Sunday, Monday & Holidays closed